Gulf Coast E 32-2

[Finesse]

sorry, didn't remember exactly what is was. Got it from a plastics company. was in a 2x4 strip. ripped it in half and cut a groove into it.

[Pterobyte]

sorry, didn't remember exactly what is was. Got it from a plastics company. was in a 2x4 strip. ripped it in half and cut a groove into it.

It was most likely UHDPE, ultra high density poly ethylene. It should be UV stabilized, which is what Starboard is.

[Intensity]

Hey Steve

appreciate all the pics! I've not seen much of the boat other than the stern! Intensity is still on the trailer. It seems its easier to "say" you are going to work on the boat than actually doing it. Anyway... Wondering if you would mind taking a pic of the prop shaft where it exits the keel. I've got the old "notch" cutout and after removing about 10lbs of rotten glass, I do believe I'm not going back with the same style. I know finese has what I want I just can't remember what it looks like. Thanks ahead!

Scotty Butcher
Intensity
US 25030

[Finesse]

no sweat. Will be at the club tomorrow. I'll snap some pics.
Scott

[Finesse]

Hope these help.

[Intensity]

Steve

Thank you so much for taking those pics for me. That helped a ton. It looks like the ole PVC pipe then glass over it trick! That's what I was contemplating. I'm wondering how small I can go with the pipe and not be in danger of burning in to the pvc with friction and all. Anyone with any input on that would be greatly appreciated. noticed you have the ole crack in the back portion of the sump joint. WTH all we supposed to do to stop that crap. If I'm right it appears that all of that area above the lead and behind the sump is just a dead zone. the keep portion is filled with foam. I have been romoving all of the glass above the shaft in the keel, and I have found some very interesting looking things in there. It almost looks as though the hull was formed without the sump, and the hole was cut out prior to adding the sump. It appears as if the hole was cut too far back and when they added the sump they realized the cut too far. Someone said "oh crap" and filled it with resin. Cause I have't gotten any fibers out of this area yet. Anybody know about this????? Thanks for all the help.

Scotty Butcher
Intensity
US 25030

[Wild Thing]

Scott, I'm planning some updates for the spring...

The double-ended spinnaker pole downhaul and improved spin sheet tweakers are on the list. What size cheek blocks did you use for those applications and what size blocks for the pole down haul. They look like 40mm... is that appropriate?

Also, is there a block that guides the tweaker line on the outboard end, or does it simply run through the stainless steel stanchion support (I can't tell from the photos)

Thanks in advance, Guy

[stegerd]

Congrats on the great season. Interesting on the rating. In Lake Erie we had 6 Evelyns from 1995 to 2000 that were very active in Cleveland. Rated 99 for IB and 96 for OB. The ratings are the same today. During that period 2 of the boats won Cleveland boat of the year competing against 40 boats ranging from Mumm 36s down to J30s. Included 2 Mumm 30s, 3 Shock 35s and 4 J105s and a 1D35. Was 105 always the base rating in your area prior to this new season?

[Finesse]

Wild Thing, sorry for the delay. Been a while since I checked in. As far as the downhaul, this is where I differ from the owner where is comes to double ending. I personally think a 2:1 lead around the forward hatch and to a swivel cleat on the cabin top for the forward crew to use. The cockpit is so small already, that it's just one more thing to get fouled. Cheeks are 40mm carbo's. No block for twings, just bail at stantion base. We use opening floating blocks for twings on sheets so they can be removed in light air. Line runs from cleat on side of cabin top, forward to cheek at base of cabin top inside the genoa track, then straight out to stantion base. Works very well.
Stegerd, 99 is tough. We sail hard to compete at 102. Love to battle it out with you guys one day.