Evelyn 26 Help Needed

[paul]

Have answered my questions and will post a new msg with more questions soon. Hope to get some help, had a few views.

I need some critical info for an Ev 26. I'm doing a mini renovation in my small backyard, have
some help but out in the open, so things like deck work is weather dependent and proceeding slow. Hope to launch soon.

1) Backstay - I am missing the lower section with the 2 stays, turnbuckles, etc. All I have is the single wire from mast crane with 1/4" pin fitting at end. I can fab a SS plate like a J24, to join the single wire to stays, would like to see whats on the E26, also if anyone has dimension for stay length, etc. A pic is fine. I have scaled a pic and think it should be 6' 8" with turnbuckle attached.
Alternative is launching boat, use a halyard as temp backstay and take measurement, then wait on a rigger.

Used Navtec NorseMen fittings with 3/16 wire for lower backstay section. Did not know DIY swages existed, rig shop set me up here.

2) Thru Hull Fittings - What compound best to use to seal thru hull fittings such as speed and depth through thenghull bottom (and thru core)? I need to add 1 or 2, had been thinking of sealing the core with epoxy then using 5200 on fitting.

I had 2 thru-hulls: Speedo and an old drain/flush fitting. Epoxy-sealed the core and used 5200 on fittings.



3) Depth Transducer - relates to 2. Some depth xducers can be glued to inside of hull, but I believe this is for solid f/g hulls. Has anyone tried to use a depth sounder glued to inside of a cored hull with good results. Intuition tells me the layers will distort signal, just trying to minimize holes in hull.

What I did was cut 1 1/4" dia hole thru interior pan, remove core to expose the hull f/g layer. Sealed up the surrounding exposed core with epoxy, poured an additional 1/4" of epoxy/fiber mix to increase hull skin thickness. Sanded and leveled reasonably, then attached the depth sounder inside. I seem to get out of range errors after 60 ft or so, but I'm not concerned about deep water. Seems to track fine in shallow water. No extra thru hull needed.


4) Masthead Spinnaker - I suppose this goes to "Nimbus" How big a chute did you fly, and where was the mast block located? Looking to do this as well, but PHRF rules here give penalty 3 sec/mi for every 8% ISP change. So figure I can move 56" up and take 6 sec; this puts new location just below mast stripe at top. I can use the longer luff but have to keep foot of chute same as old spin, unless I take another time hit ( I believe 3 sec per 10% on foot, but also use a longer pole). Don't want to take too much of a hit as most racing is 4-7 mi wind/lee type.

I did mount a new spin block 56" up, still maintain existing spin halyard as well. No time to set up and fly chute this yr, wait till next yr.

Also note - I found an Evelyn 26 Mast up here in a salvage yard (Quincy, MA), outfitted with Profurl Roller Furl. All rigging appears to be there EXCEPT the parts I wanted/need to measure. Murphy's law or something like that.

Thanks for your help,
Paul

[nimbus]

Hi Paul,

Sorry we didn't get back to you earlier. My husband is the real rigging expert. Our "mast head spinnaker" isn't really actually flown from the top of the mast but about a foot down. For our next spinnaker we are going to install a halyard block a bit lower but maximize the sail area/luff to still only take a 3 second rating penalty. The sail that came with the boat isn't quite optimal. I'll have my husband get the dimensions to you when he gets a chance.

If you PM us, maybe we can connect via email so he can just send you the info that he had for the loft.

Kathryn on Nimbus

[paul]

Thanks for the reply. I think your current spin halyard location is about where I plan to put mine. No hurry this yr, want to check it out.
I think I'll just put a block with external halyard to see how it flies. Did something similar on previous boat(Merit 25) but never raced with it.

It is a big hit (3 sec per 8% Isp). I had been in a PHRF Class with Merit at 171, was figuring to be in same with the E26 by adding roller furl
and putting Isp up 8%. Class has been dissolved so what the heck, go up all the way. 16% increase puts Isp about 8-10" below top of mast.
There are a couple of similar boats here that have maxed Isp and use longer poles (Laser 28 and Pearson Flyer) with great results. We don't
get surfing conditions so I feel a big chute with the large main on the E26 OD should pay off in light to moderate wind.

This boat is a big project for me and finding I don't have time to do what is needed. Now goal is to launch and get feel for the boat. Sails are old and headstay has original Hood foil. Needs replacing but still on fence whether to go TuffLuff, Roller Furl, or hanks. If all goes well, next yr will be new sails, fair bottom, and rebuild rudder. This yr was spent on some hull and deck repair, reinforcing, and chucking a lot of old stuff. Hope to post a few
pics.


If at all possible could I trouble you guys to take a quick measurement of the 2 short stays on backstay - the ones that go to transom? This part was missing on my boat when purchased; I'm going to fab the plate that connects to backstay, have some old turnbuckles but don't have the stays. A picture would be fine. Can send to ptsmitty@verizon.net.

Thanks,
Paul

[nimbus]

I'll try to get some pictures. We'll be interested to see what you end up doing with the rudder. It's on our list of potential projects.

[paul]

Rudder....it's pretty much junk, or at very least in need of major surgery.

I'd mentioned in another post that I thought it was heavy, also knew the stock above water had delamination from tapping parts. I had drilled 2 holes in bottom but no water came out. I think at least the foil section (wetted surface) is OK.

Section above water line is very rough. I opened up about 18" of the narrow edge facing the stern. Quite a bit of decayed balsa and detached foam. Looked like someone else tried a repair. AS mentioned we just want to get into water, so I poured some f/g resin and cat-hair bondo into the void spaces to add some support structure, reseal some delam. Very crude, don't have time to do it right and just hoping these boats do not have much weather helm!

Some time this October I plan to talk with some f/g guys and get cost for fix. Ideally I'd like someone to cut open entire rudder. Thought about it using a fixture/jig, but afraid of misaligning pins. Phil's Foils in CAN offers J29 rudders for about $2K, about same size, so that is the benchmark.